There are those who paddle for every single wave, just to see what it could be. Fun in the white water, little green waves or gigantic washing machines. They play with their board in the water for hours, in any conditions with great, inexhaustible stamina. practice the newly-learned, try new techniques, try tricks, and all with a huge blissful smile on their face. The main thing that counts is the board and the ocean. Where and how does not really matter. It’s always fun and each wave you ride was actually the perfect one.
There are those, who are no longer satisfied with the white water. They want the green wave. They don´t show great ambitions, they’d rather play it safe. They paddle systematically into green waves, which they´re sure will be a good ride. And they stop before they run out of power and prefer to end the day with the perfect wave.
And there are those who surf with the attitude “No risk, no fun”, the larger the better. Barrels, fast and steep, this is what they are looking for. Spending every second in the water until the sunsets and waiting for the last perfect wave.
So every single surfer is different, but every surfer is looking for one thing that makes them the same: The quest for the perfect wave and the feeling of the absolute luck.
And what my wise instructors always used to say:
“ONE SINGLE PERFECT WAVE CAN MAKE YOUR DAY “
And Perfection is in the eye of the beholder.
Blog by Stephanie Rauen